Valentino: The Last Emperor

Every iconic fashion designer deserves his or her own documentary, as it's a chance for the public to consider careers dedicated to making and breaking trends. Lagerfeld Confidential released in 2007, the same year Valentino Garavani saw his museum retrospective at Rome's Ara Pacis. Where was Valentino's film? Not to fear, as director Matt Tyrnauer was there with the camera, whether Valentino liked it or not, documenting his retrospective events and the chaos leading up to them. Valentino: The Last Emperor details this 77-year old icon's history, though it focuses, rather too heavily, on the bonanza surrounding the retrospective and the label's takeover that Valentino and partner, Giancarlo Giammetti, built over a fifty-year stretch. That said, Valentino is a fascinating interview subject whether he is talking about sequined gowns, dressing Jackie Kennedy, corporate takeover, or his five pugs, who star alongside him in the film. Watching this film, one gets pugs in diamond earrings, pugs riding jets, pugs passed out in an alpine mountain house. Valentino leads Lagerfeld around like old pals, to examine his renowned body of work. Women crouch around models sewing and cutting, and hair and makeup teams fly through rooms, apparition-like before the camera lens. The film isn't lacking for glamour, and if one is in the mood for a little Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous, then Valentino will satisfy tenfold.

Interview footage of the man himself and Mr. Giammetti in action--at editorial meetings, directing seamstresses, backstage before runway shows--gives a good glimpse into what these two men have spent the past 50 years doing. As Valentino says when repeatedly badgered about his retirement date, he's only taken three- to four-day holidays, and rarely, since his business exploded in 1968. He and Giammetti stroll down Via Veneto, where they reminisce about meeting and about La Dolce Vita. And one does learn about Valentino's early inspirations, such as Ziegfield Girl. There are a few short vintage footage clips of Valentino and his ladies, but the film would be so much stronger if there were more. In fact, one barely gets to view Valentino's haute couture, in scenes during retrospective events. The documentary's drama relies solely on Valentino, the charismatic tornado, rather than dwelling on his styles, probably as it should be. --Trinie Dalton